The Solitary Wave and Periodic Waves in Shallow Water (Cl...
Keller, Joseph B.![The Solitary Wave and Periodic Waves in Shallow Water (Classic Reprint)](https://support.digitalhusky.com/media/annotations/sorted/290/29075751/CHSBZCOP0329075751.jpg)
Excerpt from The Solitary Wave and Periodic Waves in Shallow WaterNumbers in square brackets refer to the bibliography at the end of the article.The theory given by Boussinesq involves a number of phys ical assumptions in addition to those of the basic hydro dynamical theory, it also leads to a differential equa tion for the wave profile. Both of these methods assume that the depth of the water is small compared to some horizontal dimension, a...