Excerpt from The Bulletin of the Beach Erosion Board, Vol. 11: July 1957The footnote Breaks over bar in Tables 1 to 7 designates any energy dissipation by turbulence as the wave passed over the bar and does not necessarily indicate a plunging breaker. It may refer to a momentary whitecap or a spilling of the wave over a longer period of time.About the PublisherForgotten Books publishes hundreds of thousands of rare and classic books. Find more at www.forgottenbooks.comThis book is a reproduction of an important historical work. Forgotten Books uses state-of-the-art technology to digitally reconstruct the work, preserving the original format whilst repairing imperfections present in the aged copy. In rare cases, an imperfection in the original, such as a blemish or missing page, may be replicated in our edition. We do, however, repair the vast majority of imperfections successfully, any imperfections that remain are intentionally left to preserve the state of such historical works.