Excerpt from The Bulletin of the Beach Erosion Board, Vol. 8: Oct. 1, 1954The foreland travels because wave action is continually removing beach material from the back and depositing it in the form of successive beach ridges on the front. To understand how wave action produces these results it is necessary to consider the part played by the angle of incidence of the waves in determining their drift-producing power.About the PublisherForgotten Books publishes hundreds of thousands of rare and classic books. Find more at www.forgottenbooks.comThis book is a reproduction of an important historical work. Forgotten Books uses state-of-the-art technology to digitally reconstruct the work, preserving the original format whilst repairing imperfections present in the aged copy. In rare cases, an imperfection in the original, such as a blemish or missing page, may be replicated in our edition. We do, however, repair the vast majority of imperfections successfully, any imperfections that remain are intentionally left to preserve the state of such historical works.